Introduction: In the ninth episode of "We Visit Counties" Season 2, we step into Nan County, known as "China's Home of Rice-Shrimp Rice." The rice industry has long been trapped in a paradox: on one hand, low rice prices hurt farmers; on the other hand, many financially capable consumers who want to buy premium quality rice do not know where to find it. The key to breaking this deadlock is branding — using brand premiums to sustain farmers' incomes and brand credibility to win consumer trust. "Nan County Rice-Shrimp Rice" is a case worth studying. This report uses a long-form article, a video, and a firsthand account to review the development journey of the "Nan County Rice-Shrimp Rice" brand.
Nan County is a county born from water. During the Qing Dynasty's Xianfeng era, a levee breach on the south bank of the Jingjiang section of the Yangtze River sent floodwaters rushing southward, forming the Ouchi River. Mud and sand poured through this river into Dongting Lake, depositing countless sandbars. Early settlers built embankments around these sandbars to create farmland, gradually reclaiming the land that became Nan County. Bordered by the Yangtze River to the north and facing Xiaoxiang to the south, this flat and fertile land is suited for both fishing and rice cultivation. Rice-shrimp rice is a new story written upon this ever-changing landscape.
Starting as a Supporting Role: Growing Rice to Raise Shrimp
Today, the brand value of "Nan County Rice-Shrimp Rice" has surpassed 30 billion yuan, exceeding the approximately 10 billion yuan brand value of "Nan County Crayfish." Yet just over a decade ago, rice was merely a byproduct of shrimp farming — farmers grew rice in order to raise shrimp. Xianjiayuan Village in Sanxianhu Town, Nan County, was the earliest place to raise shrimp. The village had many low-lying, cold-waterlogged fields that were prone to flooding, had poor soil warmth, and were costly and inefficient for rice cultivation, leading to widespread abandonment. Villagers unexpectedly discovered that they could catch crayfish in these low-lying fields, selling them for 20 to 30 yuan per jin and earning 500 to 1,000 yuan per mu — far more profitable than growing rice. "At the time, farmers felt like they had struck gold. Many kept it secret and quietly made money," recalled Qin Yong, director of the Fisheries Research Institute at the Nan County Animal Husbandry and Fisheries Affairs Center.
There was a broader context: starting in 2000, nighttime food culture emerged across China, and crayfish — once ignored by all — became the star of late-night dining, rapidly sweeping across the country and rising in value. Seeing that shrimp farming could be profitable, farmers not only utilized low-lying fields but also raised crayfish in other rice paddies. The rice-shrimp co-cropping model began to take shape and spread to other townships. Since raising shrimp was profitable, why not just raise shrimp and skip the hard work of growing rice? Huang Junwu, a large-scale farmer in Xianjiayuan Village, did exactly that — raising only shrimp without planting rice. He once transferred 115 mu of land, using 50 mu solely for shrimp fry without planting rice. He stocked 7,000 jin of shrimp fry but harvested less than 1,000 jin, losing 300,000 yuan outright. What was the reason? "Shrimp need to grip rice stubble when molting for leverage. Soft-shelled shrimp without cover will eat each other." This was the conclusion Huang Junwu reached from patrolling his ponds at night.
Tong Zhongquan, deputy director of the Nan County Provincial Agricultural Science and Technology Park Development Service Center, explained that shrimp cannot do without rice because decaying rice straw breeds plankton, which is a natural first feed for young shrimp and strengthens their constitution. Rice stubble and aquatic plants serve as surfaces for molting and resting. These conditions improve shrimp survival rates. At this point, the county's rice-shrimp landscape was one of strong shrimp and weak rice.
From "Shrimp First, Rice Second" to "Equal Emphasis on Rice and Shrimp"
Although farmers made money from shrimp, they were essentially earning "muddle-through money." "What environment does shrimp farming require? How should paddies be modified to suit shrimp? There were no unified technical standards," Qin Yong said. One day in February 2014, Qin Yong was in his office when Wei Lean, a villager from Mahekou Town, rushed in carrying a bag of dead shrimp, looking anxious: "I suspect someone poisoned my shrimp fry out of jealousy." Qin Yong took samples and found the fry had died from a common pesticide called "Mieshaoli." What many people do not know is that although crayfish can live in sewage ditches, they are extremely sensitive to pesticides and will die if levels slightly exceed limits.
At the time, relying on word-of-mouth experience in the fields, early farmers mostly chose low-toxicity pesticides on their own to avoid harming the shrimp in their ponds. "Shrimp farming forced rice production to go green, achieving results that administrative efforts previously could not," Tong Zhongquan reflected. Over time, an unwritten rule formed in Nan County's agricultural supply market: when farmers bought pesticides, dealers would proactively ask, "Is this medicine for a rice-shrimp field?" If so, they would recommend low-toxicity products harmless to crayfish. However, while shrimp farming forced improvements in rice's green quality, this was not reflected in value in the early days. After harvest, grain traders still bought at ordinary rice prices — there was no independent identity, let alone a brand.
The turning point came around 2016. County leaders visited other regions and discovered that crayfish, as a niche product, had a price ceiling in the market, while rice, as a basic necessity, had enormous room for appreciation. Wuchang rice from Northeast China was a typical example — premium rice could sell for over 100 yuan per jin. In the crayfish sector, Qianjiang in Hubei, Hefei in Anhui, and Xuyi in Jiangsu had early starts and complete industry chains, making it very difficult for Nan County to catch up. After returning from the visits, a new consensus formed across the county: pursue a differentiated development path with equal emphasis on rice and shrimp. Meanwhile, the county introduced policies and allocated real funding to accelerate the development of the rice-shrimp industry. When explaining why Nan County shifted from "shrimp first, rice second" to "equal emphasis on rice and shrimp," Qin Yong made a gesture — lifting one leg and hopping a few steps on the other — saying, "Walking on one leg makes you limp; you need two legs to walk steadily."
What Kind of Rice Can Represent Nan County?
A brand needs a name and boundaries. Nan County had to answer not only "Is there good rice here?" but also: what kind of rice can represent Nan County? What qualifies it to be called Nan County Rice-Shrimp Rice? The first hurdle was obtaining national geographical indication status. Yan Qin, a staff member of the Nan County Market Supervision Department, was involved throughout the application process. He explained that geographical indication essentially comes down to two words: the first is "place," the second is "standard." "Place" refers to the region, encompassing natural endowments and cultural history; "standard" refers to quality specifications and distinctive features. These two words were the hurdles Nan County had to clear for its national geographical indication application. "There are hard requirements for applying for national geographical indication — 30 to 50 years of historical development and accumulation. Ordinary products cannot meet the application criteria," Yan Qin said. To prove this history and distill the distinctive features of Nan County rice-shrimp rice, the application team compiled extensive historical materials. For instance, during the Qing Dynasty's Xianfeng era, Hunan Governor Luo Bingzhang mentioned: "Hunan has long been known as a rice-producing region. The lakeside areas of Yue, Chang, and Li prefectures have the most polder fields and abound in rice." He was referring precisely to the area where Nan County is located. In terms of regional characteristics, Nan County is the only county in Hunan without mountains or hills, has no mineral deposits whatsoever, and no heavy metal pollution. Nan County belongs to a continental monsoon humid climate zone with four distinct seasons, abundant heat, and ample rainfall, providing exceptional natural conditions for "rice-shrimp symbiosis" ecological agriculture.
Starting in 2000, Nan County residents began exploring rice-shrimp cultivation models, attempting to promote the "low-lying wetland rice-shrimp ecological cultivation circular agriculture model and technology." In this production model, the shells and waste from crayfish in the paddies become natural organic fertilizer for rice seedlings, while pests in the paddies become food for crayfish, reducing fertilizer use and eliminating the need for heavy pesticide application. Rice produced under this model is not only green and healthy but also crystal-clear in color, richly fragrant, with a fragrant, glutinous taste and a smooth, soft texture. Through preliminary preparations, in August 2018, the "Nanzhou Rice-Shrimp Rice" geographical indication certification trademark was approved (renamed to "Nan County Rice-Shrimp Rice" in 2020). But obtaining the national geographical indication was far from mission accomplished.
Selling Rice in Hong Kong: An International Test
For a brand to break through, it must first be showcased. The December 2018 Hong Kong Asia Agricultural Products Expo was a critical battle after Nan County rice-shrimp rice obtained national geographical indication status. Through prior coordination efforts, Nan County held a promotional event for Nan County rice-shrimp rice at the expo. An important part of the event was enterprise signing ceremonies — using the promotional event to sell Nan County rice-shrimp rice to Hong Kong and get it onto dining tables.
Zhou Zhiguang, head of Jinzhixiang Rice Industry, who participated in the expo, said Hong Kong represents internationalization, and the market's standards for rice quality and fragrance are at an international level. Entering Hong Kong was an international test of Nan County rice-shrimp rice's quality. However, everyone had almost no knowledge of Hong Kong's rice market price system and sales channels, and no one was confident whether Nan County rice-shrimp rice could win the favor of Hong Kong consumers. Wu Shenshu, deputy director of the Hunan Provincial Department of Agriculture and Rural Affairs, recalled that he was then serving as deputy county magistrate of Nan County and went to Hong Kong as an advance team member to scout the market and explore conditions. He and Zhou Zhiguang visited the Goose Neck Market, a Hong Kong agricultural market, and saw a shop with a 25-kilogram bag of "Thai Golden Phoenix Premium Fragrant Rice" displayed at the entrance. When asked the price, it was 24 Hong Kong dollars per kilogram. Zhou Zhiguang grabbed a handful of rice, smelled its fragrance, observed its color, and examined it carefully, then told Wu Shenshu: "Our rice from Nan County has the same varietal characteristics, and even has superior ecological and organic quality advantages." "Now we have confidence," Wu Shenshu said, his eyes full of light. A few days later, as the presenter, he spoke eloquently at the promotional event: "We have innovated the 'rice-shrimp symbiosis' ecological cultivation model, where shrimp weed, loosen soil, and fertilize for rice, while rice provides feed, shade, and protection for shrimp, greatly reducing chemical fertilizer and pesticide application. The rice produced is safe and pollution-free — it is ecological, nutritious, and safe organic rice." After the presentation came the on-site signing. As a result, five Hong Kong companies — Wing Fat Holdings, Tung Tai Hong, Hang Shun Hong, Cheng Fu Kai, and Yida Management — signed contracts with Nan County Keming Rice Industry and Jinzhixiang Rice Industry, with an initial order of 200 tons of rice. Provincial grain bureau information showed this was Hunan's first contracted rice sale to Hong Kong. Although the quantity was small, it pushed Nan County rice-shrimp rice from a local specialty of the lake region into the industry and public spotlight.
How to Make This Brand Stand Firm
A strong brand requires not only awareness and reputation but also loyalty. And loyalty must be won through consistent quality. How to ensure quality cannot rely solely on national geographical indication endorsement, because it is merely an entry permit, not a quality guarantee.
Yan Qin, who worked in market supervision for many years, said many agricultural products, after obtaining geographical indication, are used without restriction — anyone can affix the label — and eventually devolve into "common goods," falling into a "tragedy of the commons" dilemma. The real test followed: how to make this brand stand firm. "First-class products set standards; only with standards can there be a brand," Yan Qin said. The shortcomings were obvious. At the time, rice varieties planted in the county's rice-shrimp fields were numerous, chaotic, and mixed — over a dozen varieties including Huanghuazhan and Y Liangyou 911 — heavily homogenized with conventional rice. Without a unified flagship variety, stable product characteristics were impossible; without a standardized production system, raw grain quality could not be ensured; without supporting product standards, consistently producing high-quality rice was difficult. In response, Nan County did two things. The first was to determine varieties. Comprehensively considering rice quality, fragrance, disease resistance, and compatibility with shrimp fields, experts were organized to select flagship varieties. Meanwhile, partnerships with research institutes were established to cultivate dedicated rice-shrimp rice varieties. The second was to establish rules. Technical regulations for rice-shrimp ecological cultivation and group product standards were issued, writing cultivation environment, field management, and grain quality into enforceable clauses, turning vague experience into hard indicators.
Furthermore, to strengthen the building and management of the public brand, in 2019 Nan County established the Rice-Shrimp Industry Development Service Center (hereinafter referred to as the Rice-Shrimp Center), a full-level institutional unit directly under the county government, elevating the industry from a departmental matter to a central county priority. An important function of the Rice-Shrimp Center after its establishment was to formulate regional brand authorization access and dynamic exit mechanisms. Enterprises wanting to use the "Nan County Rice-Shrimp Rice" brand must obtain authorization from the Rice-Shrimp Center. Annual reviews are conducted, and those failing are directly removed. As one of the center's first staff members, Liao Shenghua recalled that authorization adopted a strict access system. Of the dozens of rice enterprises in Nan County, only 7 initially received authorization. Some enterprises with good performance failed to qualify due to reasons such as their core bases being too small at the time. Additionally, when authorized enterprises first used the public brand, packaging designs varied wildly, weakening brand recognition. "Later, the county organized professional teams for design and required enterprises to have new packaging bags reviewed and approved before printing. Products with non-compliant packaging could not be placed on shelves for sale," Liao Shenghua said.
Contract Farming Adds Brand Value
Regarding branding, Zhou Zhiguang had a deeply personal experience. Before founding Jinzhixiang, he was a rural "broker" who suffered greatly from the lack of a brand: "What I sold had no market bargaining power — I was completely at others' mercy." He understood deeply that brand building cannot be achieved overnight — it is a systematic project involving varieties, planting, and distribution. This is why Jinzhixiang began exploring the contract farming model in 2018. This model, through unified planting standards, on-site technical guidance, guaranteed purchase, and drying and storage facilities, solves farmers' problems of "can't grow well, can't sell, can't store," with cooperating farmers earning 500 to 800 yuan more per mu than those growing ordinary rice. In the early days of promoting premium rice, Jinzhixiang went door to door begging farmers to try planting. Later, when planting season arrived, farmers proactively came to sign contracts.
Because this model achieved a win-win for both enterprises and farmers, it gradually rose from enterprise exploration to government policy. In February 2020, Nan County issued a policy implementing subsidies for high-grade premium rice contract planting, providing rewards and subsidies to qualifying farmers or cooperatives. Today, with the rising brand value of Nan County rice-shrimp rice, enterprises cherish their reputation even more. This year, Jinzhixiang graded purchased grain into No. 1, No. 2, and No. 3 by quality, with purchase prices decreasing accordingly. If high-grade grain is found mixed with lower-grade grain, the entire batch is settled at the lowest grade — no "accidental mixing" explanations accepted. In Zhou Zhiguang's view, this is not being unreasonable — it is the foundation of protecting the brand. Mixed grain directly lowers the taste of finished rice and damages the overall reputation of Nan County rice-shrimp rice.
Currently, Jinzhixiang's contract farming area is nearly 200,000 mu, more than 20 times the 2018 figure. Across the county, 18 enterprises have been authorized to use the Nan County rice-shrimp rice public brand, with premium rice contracts covering 358,000 mu. "Contract farming gives ordinary people income expectations, enterprises a stable source of quality grain, products quality assurance, and the brand solid support," said Zhou Jianxin, Party Secretary of the Nan County Rice-Shrimp Full Industry Chain Joint Party Committee. In summary, three things: farmers earn more, enterprises become more efficient, and the brand gains value. To date, contract farming has driven 135,000 people into employment, with comprehensive per-mu income exceeding 6,000 yuan and cumulative farmer income increases of 70 million yuan.
The Brand Story Continues
Looking back, since 2016, successive Nan County Party committees and governments have worked one term after another, carrying one blueprint through to the end, creating today's rice-shrimp industry — with regional public brand value exceeding 50 billion yuan. Among this, "Nan County Rice-Shrimp Rice" brand value reaches 32.91 billion yuan, ranking first among southern production areas. Nan County Party Secretary Ding Xiaoming believes the rice-shrimp industry is not a short-term trend industry. From field cultivation, standard establishment, and variety improvement to chain extension and brand cultivation, the cycle is long, foundational work is extensive, and results come slowly. "We must carry forward the foundation laid by our predecessors, not change direction or switch tracks due to personnel changes, not chase short-term traffic, not pursue quick-success projects, and firmly grasp foundational, long-term matters like standardization, traceability management, and linking enterprises with farmers," Ding Xiaoming said.
If a flower blooms, butterflies will come. In the first half of this year, Nan County's rice-shrimp industry received provincial-level special policy support — the Hunan Provincial Department of Agriculture and Rural Affairs issued the "Opinions on Accelerating the High-Quality Development of Nan County's Rice-Shrimp Industry." According to the Opinions, "Nan County Rice-Shrimp Rice" is designated as a key regional public brand for cultivation, with the goal of reaching 80 billion yuan in regional public brand value for Nan County rice-shrimp by 2028. This is a provincial-level special document specifically targeting Nan County's entire rice-shrimp industry chain, and one of the few provincial-level industry opinions issued specifically for a single county's distinctive industry in the province. Nationally, other provinces have made similar explorations. For example, in 2023, Hubei issued a provincial-level special policy called "Shrimp Ten Measures" to support Qianjiang crayfish development. By 2026, the "Qianjiang Lobster" regional public brand value reached 63.47 billion yuan. Some experts point out that Qianjiang's experience shows that once an industry reaches a certain scale, county-level resources alone cannot break through the brand premium ceiling — provincial policy intervention is a necessary "critical leap." The head of the Rural Industry Division of the Provincial Department of Agriculture and Rural Affairs said Nan County's rice-shrimp industry brand value exceeds 50 billion yuan, ranking first in the province, with large room for further development and a demonstrative and leading role province-wide. The province issued the policy to integrate resources for support, aiming to promote the industry's key breakthrough and enhance its brand influence and market competitiveness.
Yangtze River sediment deposited in Dongting Lake over many years to form the land of Nan County. Yet rice-shrimp rice grew from a byproduct of shrimp farming into a public brand worth over 30 billion yuan in less than 20 years. Sediment took decades to form land; a truly enduring agricultural brand may take even longer to settle. The way of rice: ecology has its way of symbiosis, industry has its way of operation, and brands have their way of longevity. Nan County has found its way.
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