At 6 a.m., the Xiangjiang River is shrouded in a thin layer of mist. At the Xingmazhou Ferry Terminal in Tianxin District, a horn cuts through the silence, and the "Xingmazhou Ferry No. 1" steadily docks. Inside the cabin, 58-year-old captain Li Sanming stands with a calm and focused gaze. Elderly heading to the market, villagers off to work, children on their way to school, along with electric bikes and cars, board the ferry in a steady stream—a scene Li Sanming has repeated for 27 years.
Xingmazhou Island sits in the middle of the Xiangjiang River, and the daily life of its over 1,000 residents depends entirely on this ferry. To Li Sanming, it's a ferry route; to the islanders, it's a "lifeline" that cannot be easily broken. The upcoming construction of the Changsha South-North Expressway's cross-Xiangjiang mega bridge, which will soar over the southern part of the island, fills this veteran captain with unprecedented hope for the island's future, along with a touch of bittersweet reluctance.
Vows at the Helm: 27 Years Living on the Boat, Helping Many
At 9:30 a.m. on August 14, a reporter arrived at the Xingmazhou Ferry Terminal. Several cars were parked by the shore, windows half-open, as drivers occasionally glanced out at the river. A few villagers stood by their vehicles, some carrying groceries, others with bags, all waiting quietly without a hint of impatience. The Xiangjiang River's waters lapped gently, and a ferry slowly approached. The ferry runs about every 40 minutes. As the ramp lowers, the first car rolls onto the deck, its tires making a dull thud against the steel plates. A safety officer reminds everyone to stop and pull the handbrake. Only after confirming all is clear from the bow does Li Sanming set sail.
The terminal currently has three crew members, with Li Sanming being the most senior. Born in 1958, his hair is a mix of black and gray, making him look younger than his age. Initially quiet, answering only when asked, he opens up when talking about the Xiangjiang River and the island's families. "I started learning to steer a boat from my father at 15, training for five years. After working outside for 11 years, I returned to Xingmazhou in 1999 to take the helm independently. That's 27 years in total." If you count from his apprenticeship, he has spent 43 years working with the Xiangjiang River. His routine has been unshakeable for decades: wake up at 5:30 a.m. and depart at 6 a.m. sharp. "During peak morning hours, it's busy, with trips every half hour, and I make over 40 round trips a day." Over the years, the only reasons for canceling service have been strong winds, heavy fog, or flooding. In his mind, the ferry is crucial to the islanders' livelihoods—"The passengers are either elderly going to market, children going to school, or people heading out for work. You can't delay them." During holidays, the ferry is busiest, and he often spends the holidays on the boat alone. "Guarding the ferry means guarding the island's villagers." This simple, heartfelt principle has sustained him through countless nights away from his family.
"If someone on the island has an emergency and calls him, no matter how late it is, as long as it's safe to sail, he'll come," said a villager, Ms. Wang. When a child is sick, an elderly person falls, or there's a sudden illness, everyone thinks of Li Sanming first. When asked about it, he rubbed the back of his head and smiled shyly: "We all live on the same island, I know everyone. I just help out when I can." Over the years, he has responded to snakebite emergencies, taken elderly with mobility issues to the hospital, and never refused a request, even in stormy weather. The phrase "regardless of wind or rain" sounds simple coming from him, but it's a habit built over decades of making those trips. He has seen many dangers on the river and always lends a hand to those in need. Several times, he has rushed to rescue people drowning while swimming. During the 2017 Xiangjiang River floods, when the water level was dangerously high, he worked around the clock, transporting people and flood-fighting supplies. "The biggest reward over all these years is staying safe," Li Sanming said calmly. But behind that word "safe" is an ironclad rule: he checks the engine and cabin equipment before every departure, and holds monthly firefighting drills with the crew. He has not had a single safety incident in 27 years.
Ferrying isn't always smooth. Villager Mr. Peng recalled times when the ferry broke down, leaving people and cars waiting on the shore. Li Sanming was always more anxious than anyone, frantically trying to fix it as soon as possible. "Every extra day the ferry is out of service, the islanders have to wait an extra day," Mr. Peng said. "Captain Li always has the island in his heart." "Old Li is a reliable worker and an excellent pilot. During flood season, he's the first to step up for rescue operations," said Li Hu, Deputy Party Secretary of Binzhou New Village, Nantuo Subdistrict, Tianxin District.
Changes on the River: From Carrying Bicycles Across the River to Hoping for a Bridge and 'Tourist Boats'
Over his decades of sailing, Li Sanming has witnessed the evolution of travel from Xingmazhou. In the 1980s, people carried their bicycles onto the boat. In 1985, a ramp was built at the terminal, allowing vehicles to be pushed directly onto the ferry. He was the one who transported the first tractor to the island. In the 1990s, the ferry could carry cars. Later, generation after generation of children took his ferry to go to school, and now they work all over the country. The ferry carries the daily lives of every household and chronicles the island's history of movement. However, the limitations of the ferry are clear: it cannot operate in winds above Force 6, heavy fog, or icy conditions. It's also inconvenient for night-time medical emergencies or material transport. These limitations are about to become a thing of the past. Xingmazhou Island is under the jurisdiction of Binzhou New Village, Nantuo Subdistrict, Tianxin District. The island has about 1,000 registered households, with over 500 permanently residing. For a long time, the ferry has been the main route for residents to come and go, and villagers ride for free. Going to work, school, the market, or the doctor all require waiting for the ferry at the terminal. For the islanders, this ferry connects not just the two banks of the Xiangjiang, but is an inseparable part of their daily lives.
"The South-North Expressway's cross-Xiangjiang mega bridge is planned to start construction at the end of this year, with the bridge site chosen in the southern part of Xingmazhou. A supporting road will be built to connect directly to Xiangjiang South Road," said Li Hu. Once the bridge is completed, 24-hour access will become a reality, allowing elderly people with sudden illnesses to be driven directly to the hospital. Mr. Su, a subdistrict staff member, explained that there are also plans to explore new directions for the ferry, potentially combining it with the island's scenery to develop tourist boats. The local government plans to leverage the ferry terminal to develop unique cultural tourism, creating new businesses like homestays, family-friendly activities, and riverside beaches, linking up the 13-island tourism route of the Changsha Xiangjiang River. The terminal could be renovated into a dock for sightseeing boats. When the reporter relayed this to Li Sanming, who was busy tidying the mooring lines on the bow, he paused his work upon hearing the words "tourist boat." He looked up, his eyes suddenly lighting up, and smiled as he gazed at the river: "If I can still be sailing on the river in the future, that would be even better!"
From learning to steer from his father at 15 to the present day, the waters of the Xiangjiang have flowed on year after year, and he has made the crossing countless times. He has watched the island's children grow up, seen those who once carried bicycles across the river now driving cars, and witnessed the island's houses and roads transform. Standing in the cabin, looking at the surging river, Li Sanming's eyes shone with light: "Our ancestors used small wooden boats and rafts for the crossing. My generation used diesel-powered ferries. Now, a bridge is about to be built. The dream of generations of ferrymen is coming true." He paused, his voice quiet but firm: "I believe the future of Xingmazhou will only get better." A river breeze passed by, and the ferry set sail once more. The water reflected the new greenery on both banks, along with Li Sanming's face, tanned and gentle from the river wind. He held the helm, as if holding the island's past and future. The bridge is about to be built, but this veteran captain's story will continue to flow in the morning mist and evening twilight of the Xiangjiang River.
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