The luxury fashion world has unveiled another unconventional item.
At the recent Paris SS27 Men's Fashion Week, the standout piece wasn't a sharply tailored suit or an exclusive accessory. Instead, it was a pair of transparent men's shoes from Saint Laurent (commonly known as YSL). Images from the runway quickly dominated social media, sparking widespread debate and overshadowing the standard new releases from other luxury houses.
The shoe's notoriety stems from a public discussion it ignited, oscillating between critiques of being a "beautiful torture device" and a subject for "foot odor literature."
Runway images reveal that the new YSL offering retains the classic formal, lace-up silhouette of a derby shoe, complete with the brand's signature pointed toe. However, it forgoes traditional leather, constructed entirely from transparent PVC material, giving it a crystal-like, sheer appearance.
The design of the PVC encasing the feet, however, led many online commentators to voice immediate concerns based on everyday experience, even before seeing the product in person. Comments ranged from "I can smell it through the screen" and "Just imagining it is uncomfortable" to warnings about it being a "biochemical weapon" if a room of men took them off, with some even noting the visual detail of "a few hairs on a tycoon's toes."
In response to these queries, a consumer inquiry was made to YSL's official customer service. The representative stated that this footwear is a new item from the 2027 Spring/Summer collection, is not yet available for sale, and has no pricing information. The earliest launch in the domestic market is projected for the end of the year.
Regarding questions about the design concept, materials, and consumer concerns about heat and breathability, the YSL representative acknowledged public apprehension, noting, "As the product is currently not on sale, we have not yet received specific information regarding the materials or design philosophy."
The "Foot Odor Literature" Phenomenon
At the recently concluded Saint Laurent (YSL) Summer 2027 menswear show, a pair of transparent PVC derby shoes became the most talked-about item. Some reports indicate the new shoes are expected to retail for between 12,000 and 15,000 yuan.
Pictures from the show reveal this surprising footwear maintains the traditional formal shoe shape and YSL's signature sculpted, elongated toe, but the upper is crafted from transparent PVC, making the wearer's toes completely visible. The visual effect, accentuated by fogging from heat, was particularly striking.
Reports suggest the Saint Laurent 2027 Spring/Summer menswear collection was centered on the theme of "restraint." Creative Director Anthony Vaccarello drew inspiration from figures for whom restraint is a virtue. The show unfolded within artist Fujiko Nakaya's immersive fog installation, "Cloud 07156," with models moving through a hazy atmosphere, creating an ethereal and restrained aesthetic. The collection extensively used lightweight, sheer fabrics like mesh and transparent knits to echo this "barely visible" theme.
Industry perspectives note that the transparent shoes worn by models align perfectly with the season's theme. Within just a few steps on the runway, condensation quickly formed inside the shoes, creating a dramatic visual tension that propelled them into the spotlight.
However, a larger segment of the online audience expressed skepticism and confusion about the design, sparking the "foot odor literature" discussion.
PVC is most commonly used in everyday items like rain boots, waterproof jackets, and transparent handbags. Its physical properties offer near-perfect sealing but almost zero breathability. Applying this material to formal men's shoes, which encase the feet for complex wearing scenarios, essentially transforms a high-fashion item into a miniature "sauna."
One fashion influencer bluntly questioned on social media, "Who would spend over ten thousand yuan on these YSL plastic PVC derby shoes?" They argued that "YSL's ten-thousand-yuan transparent derbies are equivalent to high-end plastic rain shoe covers. The fashion gimmick outweighs everything; wearing them daily would feel utterly cheap."
The public criticism highlights two main pain points. One focuses on discomfort, with comments like "men can't escape the 'beauty tax' of crystal shoes," observing how toes would struggle within the narrow toe box, and labeling them "another beautiful torture device."
The other centers on an anticipated olfactory disaster, with people imagining a "pungent, sour foot odor" through the screen: "smelly feet visualized," "already can smell the acidic foot odor," "looks terribly stinky," "foot sweat turning directly into distilled water," and "taking them off would fumigate a whole room."
When asked again about the design rationale, materials, and heat concerns, the YSL customer service reiterated understanding of public worries due to the product's pre-sale status but added that "'transparency' is an element our brand has consistently favored in design."
Is It All About the Gimmick?
This is not the first time a luxury brand has experimented with "plastic footwear."
In March of this year, a promotional video for a new Chloé sandal sparked discussion on social media. The video introduced the "jelly sandal," featuring a peep-toe design for comfort and stability. Reportedly a Summer 2026 new arrival priced at 4,900 yuan, its main material is TPU.
Many users commented, "Isn't this the plastic sandal we wore as kids?" and "I really don't have time for these luxury antics," expressing amusement at the design.
The debut of YSL's "plastic shoe," with its unspecified price and earliest domestic availability slated for year-end, has reignited the debate over "high-priced plastic."
A luxury goods expert and dean of an institute commented, "Using transparent PVC material for men's formal shoes has a certain avant-garde, breakthrough feel in form, but it is essentially typical traffic-driven design. Its marketing gimmick far outweighs its actual innovative value. Genuine brand innovation focuses on delivering user value and enhancing the wearing experience. This item detaches from the practical attributes and situational logic of formal shoes and does not represent sound product innovation."
From "Chanel's toeless shoes" to "YSL's men's plastic shoes," in the age of social media传播, controversial items with weak practicality often generate far more buzz than conventional products that balance aesthetics and utility.
"This is a classic double-edged sword for luxury brands," the expert noted. "In the short term, controversial items can quickly create舆论话题, leverage free social media traffic, significantly boost brand exposure, and drive short-term brand heat and volume growth. However, the long-term drawbacks are more pronounced. Frequently relying on bizarre, unconventional designs to generate heat will continuously dilute the brand's high-end调性 and blur the aesthetic perception and style定位 among the general public and core clientele."
She further pointed out, "The core competitiveness of a luxury brand ultimately lies in its积淀 of审美 and quality heritage. Relying on controversial designs to chase流量 is like drinking poison to quench thirst. Gimmick marketing detached from value may seem to gain热度, but it actually continuously消耗 the口碑 and溢价根基 accumulated over the long term."
Revenue Declines and Store Closures
In February, French luxury conglomerate Kering presented its first annual report under new CEO Luca de Meo.
Financial data shows Kering's full-year 2025 revenue fell 13% year-on-year to 14.7 billion euros, down 10% on a comparable basis. Recurring operating profit dropped 33% to 1.6 billion euros, with the operating margin declining from 14.5% to 11.1%. After accounting for non-recurring items related mainly to optimization and restructuring measures, the group's net loss from continuing operations attributable to owners was 29 million euros.
As the core engine contributing over 40% of Kering's revenue, Gucci faces multiple crises. In 2025, Gucci's revenue fell 22% to 6 billion euros (down 19% on a comparable basis), shrinking nearly 40% from its peak of over 10 billion euros in 2022. While Gucci undergoes adjustment, YSL's performance is also concerning, with 2025 revenue declining 8% to 2.6 billion euros (down 6% on a comparable basis).
Geographically, the Asia-Pacific region (excluding Japan), which includes China, remains Kering's most significant challenge. In 2025, the region accounted for 30% of group revenue, but sales fell 19% to 4.204 billion euros. According to Kering's Deputy CEO, the group plans to close a net 100 stores in 2026, with 40% of those closures occurring in the Asian market.
This wave of "store closures" has inevitably affected YSL. From the withdrawal from Xiamen MixC last October, the closure of the Wuhan恒隆广场 store in March, to the exit from Chengdu Tianfu Airport in June, YSL has shuttered several key stores in China within just a few months.
Analyzing the situation, the expert stated, "The brand has actively adjusted its China market strategy in recent years by scaling back inefficient wholesale channels, streamlining discounted goods, and focusing on direct retail. This effectively enhances product scarcity and brand调性. This channel optimization strategy holds significant long-term strategic value and lays a solid foundation for its深耕 in China's high-end market, leaving ample room for future growth."
She further added, "Within the Kering group, Saint Laurent is a core strategic brand for承接 growth and balancing the group's business structure. However, objectively speaking, with the固 of the high-end market格局,加剧的消费细分, and its own brand定位 and development ceiling, Saint Laurent is unlikely to replicate the peak scale and industry地位 once achieved by Gucci."
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