On April 4, 2026, Shanghai's Zhonghuan Bailian shopping mall was bustling with customers purchasing outdoor jackets. Recently, yoga apparel giant Lululemon faced product quality controversies, as the Attorney General of Texas officially launched an investigation into its U.S. operations. The core issue is whether its products contain PFAS, known as "forever chemicals," and whether these are linked to endocrine disorders, infertility, cancer, and other health risks.
This investigation not only tests the credibility of sportswear brands but also reveals the outdoor apparel industry's long-term reliance on fluorine-based functional materials. Due to their environmental persistence and potential health risks, PFAS are being strictly restricted by many countries worldwide, with domestic standards also being upgraded accordingly.
The entire industry is now accelerating toward a "fluorine-free" era. Once considered the performance cornerstone of waterproof outdoor clothing, fluorine-based technology has become a compliance threshold that brands must cross.
What is PFAS and what are the risks? PFAS, short for per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances, are a class of synthetic chemicals. Their carbon-fluorine bonds are extremely stable, making them difficult to degrade in the natural environment or metabolize in the human body, hence the name "forever chemicals." Due to their excellent waterproof, oil-resistant, and high-temperature resistance properties, PFAS have been widely used in daily life over the past decades.
"PFAS has long been a core functional material commonly used in the apparel industry, especially in outdoor clothing fabrics," said Cheng Weixiong, a footwear and apparel brand strategy consultant and founder of Shanghai Liangxi Brand Management Co., Ltd. Since the 1950s, PFAS became the only mature solution for achieving waterproof, oil-resistant, and stain-resistant properties. In clothing, PFAS are mainly used for surface coatings, creating a lotus effect that causes water droplets to roll off, achieving durable water repellency, and also used in waterproof breathable membranes to physically block rainwater while allowing sweat vapor to escape.
However, despite PFAS's significant functional advantages, their potential risks cannot be ignored. Long-chain PFAS, such as perfluorooctanesulfonic acid (PFOS) and perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA), are particularly problematic due to their strong bioaccumulation potential. The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) has classified PFOA as a Group 1 carcinogen and PFOS as a Group 2B possible carcinogen. Both have been included in the Stockholm Convention for global restrictions and are core controlled substances in China's List of Key Controlled New Pollutants.
In February this year, the Shanghai Municipal Bureau of Ecology and Environment indicated that although the use of PFOA is gradually being restricted in many fields,微量残留 may still be present in consumer products due to historical extensive use and environmental persistence. Clothing can also release trace amounts of PFOA during use or wear, posing long-term potential risks. The Guangdong Provincial Center for Disease Control and Prevention stated in 2024 that animal experiments and population studies show perfluorinated compounds have multi-organ toxicity, with known adverse effects including neurotoxicity, endocrine toxicity, immunotoxicity, reproductive and developmental toxicity, and genotoxicity.
"Different PFAS have essential differences in toxicity, environmental behavior, and health risks; the entire family cannot be equated with highly toxic carcinogens," said Qu Han, a member of the Persistent Organic Pollutants Professional Committee of the Chinese Society for Environmental Sciences and an associate professor at the College of Environment and Ecology of Chongqing University. Globally, authoritative institutions recognize that the primary ways humans ingest PFAS are through dietary intake and drinking water consumption. In contrast, dermal exposure through textile skin contact, while objectively present, typically accounts for a low proportion of total exposure. Although sweating and skin friction during exercise may slightly increase the migration efficiency of chemicals, current toxicological evidence is insufficient to prove that daily wearing of textiles containing PFAS within compliant limits can directly cause cancer or severe endocrine disorders. This exposure level is usually below the health reference doses set by regulatory agencies in various countries and has not reached concentration thresholds capable of producing acute or severe chronic toxic effects.
From the perspective of fluorine chemical industry expert Wu Ke'an, there is no need to "panic at the mention of fluorine." Wu pointed out that most PFAS are not acutely toxic substances, and short-term, small-amount contact does not cause serious harm to the human body. The real concern is that if enterprises do not achieve maximum recovery and destruction during the production and use of toxic PFAS, these substances will accumulate in the environment almost without degradation, and increasing concentrations will eventually harm organisms and humans.
Brand Responses and National Standard Requirements The Lululemon investigation is not an isolated incident; many reports suggest it is just the "tip of the iceberg" regarding fluorine-containing substance issues in the outdoor apparel industry. Previously, well-known outdoor jacket brands were reported to contain "forever chemicals," raising widespread consumer concerns about wearing safety.
On April 16, inquiries were made to various outdoor and sports brands' official customer services regarding whether their products contain PFAS. The responding brands all emphasized that their products comply with national standards and are safe for use.
Arc'teryx customer service stated: "We have strict standards for fabrics and design details, and consumer safety is a professional consideration. Currently, Arc'teryx products comply with relevant national standards; feel free to wear and use them."
Camel Group customer service claimed: "We prioritize consumer health and product safety, with strict standards for fabrics and materials. Camel products undergo testing by authoritative third-party institutions before market release, comply with national standards, and can be purchased with confidence."
Customer services for Mammut, Ozark, Naturehike, Toread, Kolon, and ANTA SPORTS also responded, all mentioning "compliance with national standards, third-party testing, and prioritizing user safety."
How exactly do the "national standards" frequently mentioned by brands define and control PFAS? In 2022, the Ministry of Ecology and Environment and five other ministries jointly issued the List of Key Controlled New Pollutants (2023 Edition), explicitly prohibiting the production and processing use of PFOA except for specific exempted purposes, while implementing strict import and export controls. Ordinary consumer clothing is not within the exemption scope.
At the end of February 2026, the Ministry of Ecology and Environment released the "15th Five-Year Plan" Environmental Benchmark Work Plan (Draft for Comments), further emphasizing the promotion of hazard characteristic research for typical new pollutants including PFAS and continuously improving the environmental control system.
The current national standard for outdoor jackets in China is GB/T 32614-2023 "Outdoor Sportswear - Jackets," officially implemented on April 1, 2024, replacing the old standard. This standard comprehensively regulates jacket waterproofness, moisture permeability, abrasion resistance, seam hydrostatic pressure, and safety requirements. Although it does not provide a definition for PFAS as a whole, it clearly stipulates in intrinsic quality requirements that PFOS and PFOA content must both be less than 1.0 μg/m².
Globally, PFAS control in the apparel industry has formed a wave. Countries like France and New Zealand have successively banned the use of PFAS in clothing and cosmetics; several U.S. states have also introduced similar bans.
Industry "Defluorination" Accelerates, Fluorine-Free Technology Routes Mature Driven by tightening global regulations and rising consumer environmental awareness, the "defluorination" process in the outdoor apparel industry is significantly accelerating. Fluorine-free alternative technologies are moving from the laboratory to large-scale production, becoming a mainstream industry trend.
In the domestic market, some sportswear brands have announced they are leading the way into the "fluorine-free era."
In late August 2025, ANTA SPORTS jointly released with Donghua University a self-developed high-performance fluorine-free waterproof and breathable material called the Fluorine-Free ANTA Membrane. ANTA SPORTS Group previously pointed out that the fluorine-free transformation of high-performance waterproof and breathable fabrics has long been recognized as a world-class challenge in the industry. Major international brands controlling the global market for waterproof and breathable fabrics mostly choose to improve their existing technological paths towards fluorine-free solutions. The Fluorine-Free ANTA Membrane achieves high performance while controlling the selling price to one-third that of international similar fabric garments.
It is understood that the Fluorine-Free ANTA Membrane is currently used in the ANTA SPORTS brand; other brands under the ANTA SPORTS Group also have similar eco-friendly technologies.
Regarding other domestic brands, based on incomplete inquiries, Li-Ning customer service responded to the PFAS query by stating that its Wanlongjia series jackets do not contain PFAS, relying on Li-Ning Heilong rainproof technology for waterproof function. Jack Wolfskin, under the ANTA SPORTS Group, stated that its entire jacket line uses PFC-Free fluorine-free water repellent technology, and its TEXAPORE waterproof membrane also contains no PFC, promising to bear return shipping costs if the material does not match the claim.
Pan Jun, a visiting professor at Donghua University and member of the Fashion Art Professional Committee of the Chinese Textile Engineering Society, explained that the primary driver for "defluorination" is the tightening of global regulations, leading to sharply increased costs of non-compliance. Secondly, consumer awareness is rising, with health and environmental protection becoming key factors in purchasing decisions. Finally, brand reputation risks are heightened, as social media amplifies "greenwashing" or double-standard behaviors, forcing brands to prioritize defluorination.
Since 2022, mature fluorine-free solutions have emerged集中, forming three main technological paths. Pan Jun介绍: first, membrane替代, represented by Gore's ePE membrane, with performance comparable to traditional products, is the mainstream choice for international brands; second, coating innovation, using polyurethane/polyolefin-based fluorine-free DWR, with lower costs, suitable for the mass market; third, bio-based and structural biomimicry, represented by ANTA SPORTS's bio-based polymer membrane, representing a more thorough sustainable direction. Pan Jun also提醒 that the window for fluorine-free technology has opened, but durability and cost remain common challenges for the industry.
Cheng Weixiong补充 that international sportswear brands initiated fluorine-free related technology R&D around 2010, completing product system transitions between 2020 and 2023, mainly adopting two paths: modified silicone-based materials and high-end fluorine-free membranes; domestic brands集中发力 in 2023, with large-scale implementation from 2024 to 2025, focusing on fluorine-free membranes and bio-based materials, with performance对标 international high-end levels and more competitive pricing.
How Can Consumers Identify Authenticity? What Impact on the Supply Chain? Faced with a wide array of waterproof clothing on the market, ordinary consumers often find it difficult to accurately determine whether a product contains PFAS on their own.
Pan Jun summarized a three-step identification method for consumers: First, check labels and advertising. Look for clear "PFC-Free" or "不含全氟化合物" declarations; be wary of vague terms like "eco-friendly waterproof." Second, request and verify evidence. Ask brands for third-party test reports from institutions like SGS or ITS; key points are whether specific substance contents like PFOS and PFOA are below the national standard limit of 1.0 μg/m², and pay attention to the testing standard. Third, look for certifications and traceability. Prioritize products with authoritative eco-certifications like bluesign® or OEKO-TEX Standard 100; some leading brands provide fabric traceability information for higher transparency.
Besides checking labels, technologies, and test reports, Cheng Weixiong also pointed out that the most accurate method is an "oil repellency test." Generally, truly fluorine-free fabrics do not repel oil; droplets of cooking oil or white mineral oil will wet and penetrate, whereas fluorine-containing fabrics will cause droplets to bead up and roll off.
As technology matures and standards improve, environmentally safe fluorine-free outdoor clothing will become the market mainstream and industry consensus. For consumers, "fluorine-free" may become a new purchasing criterion; for enterprises, it is a compliance threshold that must be crossed. However, the transition to fluorine-free is far from a simple material substitution; it represents a deep restructuring of the entire outdoor apparel supply chain.
"For the supply chain, the cost of fluorine-free coatings typically increases by about 15% to 25%, which is not merely a cost increase," Pan Jun pointed out. In the future, at the fabric end, enterprises with core fluorine-free patent technology will gain stronger bargaining power, while traditional coating manufacturers will gradually face淘汰. At the brand end, R&D and supply chain management capabilities will become new moats; deep integration and co-development with upstream partners are necessary to control cost and performance advantages. Overall, in the short term, high-end product prices will be under pressure; in the long run, domestic brands are expected to achieve breakthroughs through technological innovation.
"After experiencing industry阵痛 and landscape reshuffling, enterprises with comprehensive advantages in 'technology + compliance + supply chain' will stand out. Domestic sports and outdoor brands are expected to achieve overtaking on curves through this opportunity," Cheng Weixiong commented on the industry's future direction. "In the short term, the outdoor industry will face significant cost pressures, with rising R&D investment, production line改造, testing, and compliance costs; small and medium-sized enterprises may加速出清. In the long term, the fluorine-free transition contains huge development opportunities. Although initial cost increases for fluorine-free products may lead to a 3-5 percentage point decline in gross margin, the products can achieve a 10% to 30% price premium, and defluorination capability will become a core competitiveness for enterprises."
Pan Jun similarly judged that in the future, "fluorine-free" will shift from a professional parameter to a core purchasing consideration. The outdoor apparel industry landscape will undergo a reshuffle, with technology leaders dominating, while small and medium-sized brands and fabric suppliers lacking R&D capabilities will exit, leading to increased industry concentration. Meanwhile, the Chinese supply chain,凭借 rapid response and cost innovation, is expected to occupy a more central position in the global fluorine-free transition.
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