A love letter to Sweetings, the City’s oldest restaurant

cityam08-25 22:21

Sweetings is the City's oldest restaurant Ahead of our Toast the City Awards this October, we pay homage to Sweetings, the City’s oldest restaurantBritain is a country steeped in tradition and often ...

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We should never forget that the Square Mile is a perfect example of world-changing innovation. In 1571, Sir Thomas Gresham’s Royal Exchange gave London merchants a home from which to ply their commerce; the establishment of the Bank of England in 1694 transformed the Crown’s access to borrowing and allowed it to make the Royal Navy globally dominant.At the same time, Lloyd’s Coffee House was giving birth to the eponymous insurers and shipping register, and the brokers who thronged Jonathon’s Coffee-House created what would become the London Stock Exchange, one of the world’s oldest.","collect":0,"end_time":0,"defaultTopTitle":"cityam.com","property":[],"viewcount":null,"language":"en","relate_stocks":{"BK4211":"区域性银行","CHCO":"City Holding Company"},"translate_title":"写给这座城市最古老的餐厅 Sweetings 的一封情书","themeId":null,"isJumpTheme":false,"ttsUrl":null,"symbols_score_info":{"CHCO":1.5},"content_text":"Sweetings is the City's oldest restaurant Ahead of our Toast the City Awards this October, we pay homage to Sweetings, the City’s oldest restaurantBritain is a country steeped in tradition and often too wedded to the past, but it also proved itself capable of great innovation. We should never forget that the Square Mile is a perfect example of world-changing innovation. In 1571, Sir Thomas Gresham’s Royal Exchange gave London merchants a home from which to ply their commerce; the establishment of the Bank of England in 1694 transformed the Crown’s access to borrowing and allowed it to make the Royal Navy globally dominant.At the same time, Lloyd’s Coffee House was giving birth to the eponymous insurers and shipping register, and the brokers who thronged Jonathon’s Coffee-House created what would become the London Stock Exchange, one of the world’s oldest.\n\nBut Britain has another genius too, a cocktail of those I’ve just identified: as a nation, we are past masters at fighting rearguard actions, sometimes against inevitable change. Again, look at the City: by the early 1980s, the Stock Exchange was a clubby, cliquey institution still dominated by “chaps” from good families and good schools. It was only in 1973 that women and foreign-born traders had been allowed on the trading floor. The deregulation of 1986—”Big Bang”—changed all that, and London is still one of the world’s great financial centres.Another Square Mile legend to be rebornDotted in and around the City you can still find some relics of bygone ages, living time capsules of another London. The most obvious are the restaurants which served—and still cater for—patrons who have the vestigial habits and taste of respectable Edwardian men of business and property. Several have endured and flourished just beyond the formal limits of the City, like Rules, Scott’s, Bentley’s and J. Sheekey.\n\n\n\n\n\n\nNews Updates\nStay ahead with our three daily briefings delivering all the key market moves, top business and political stories, and incisive analysis straight to your inbox.\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nWithin the Square Mile life has been harder: Simpson’s Tavern closed suddenly during the Covid-19 pandemic but has been reborn as Cloth Cornhill; the Quality Chop House endures, and life goes on at Sweetings, in the Albert Buildings on Queen Victoria Street, much as it has done since moving into the premises in 1889.\n\nSweetings: the Victorian features remainIt is an overused phrase but Sweetings really is a City institution. What had begun as John S. Sweetings, Fish and Oyster Merchant was nearly 60 years old when it took up residence in the Albert Buildings, a grand, wedge-shaped construction built speculatively for offices in 1871. It began as a wholesaler on Lad Lane in Islington in 1830, with a restaurant at 159 Cheapside, then 17 Milk Street, where it billed itself as “Very Superior Oyster Rooms”.The contemporary Sweetings does not offer what most diners would regard as a wide menu. There is fish—Dover sole, halibut, turbot, skate, plaice—lobster and crab and, for some the main event, oysters. A few anodyne vegetable side dishes, a handful of “puddings” and, joy upon joy for the unreconstructed like me, a selection of savouries. An attentive waiter could learn the menu in an hour. If fish is not your scene, you have assuredly come to the wrong restaurant.","kind":"highlight","is_publish_news":true,"is_publish_highlight":false,"is_publish_live":false,"is_publish_wemedia":false,"editions":null,"column":"","sentiment":"0","news_tag":"","news_rank":0,"isVideo":false,"video":null,"symbols":[],"gpt_button":0,"need_auth":false,"need_login_tip":false,"code":"91000000","status":"200"},"commentList":[],"isCommentEnd":true,"newsSizeData":{"likeSize":0,"commentSize":0,"repostSize":0,"favoriteSize":0,"likeStatus":false,"favoriteStatus":false},"APP":{"userAgent":"Mozilla/5.0 AppleWebKit/537.36 (KHTML, like Gecko; compatible; ClaudeBot/1.0; +claudebot@anthropic.com)","isDev":false,"isTTM":true,"isLaohu8Offline":false,"tenantId":"TBGLOBAL","deviceId":"web-server-community-laohu8-v3","version":"4.47.1","shortVersion":"4.47.1","platform":"web","vendor":"web","appName":"ttm","isIOS":false,"isAndroid":false,"isTiger":false,"isTHS":false,"isWeiXin":false,"isWeiXinMini":false,"isWeiBo":false,"isQQ":false,"isBaiduSwan":false,"isBaiduBox":false,"isDingTalk":false,"isToutiao":false,"isOnePlus":false,"isHuaWei":false,"isXiaomi":false,"isXiaomiWebView":false,"isOppo":false,"isVivo":false,"isSamsung":false,"isMobile":false},"href":"/m/news/2662536867","isCrawlerRequest":true}